COP v3.0:installation; swarf

Swarf

13.2 Swarf 
Cutting or drilling operations on any metal produce fine metallic filings known as swarf. Steel swarf will rust immediately on reaction with oxygen and water to produce a stain that is very often mistaken for the rusting of the substrate. Such damage to metal cladding and pre-painted steel coatings is avoidable; it is the result of poor fixing practice or the work of other trades.
If swarf is not immediately cleaned from pre-painted steel building products, damage can appear either as localised rust stains or as fine scratches from swarf embedded in shoes. This type of damage will naturally detract from the performance or the appearance of the product. Non- ferrous metals also produce swarf, but as it does not rust it is not so obvious. It should, however, be removed in the same manner as steel swarf.
There are several different types of swarf. The most common swarf left on metal roof sheeting is that left as a result of using self-drilling screws, which consist of helically shaped coils and small chips. This local type of swarf should be regarded as a necessary part of the roofing process and can be easily removed, by regularly sweeping swarf into a receptacle with a nylon brush or using a small magnet.
Swarf can collect under flashings, screw heads, washers and in sheet laps, particularly with the use of horizontal cladding, and staining can arise if swarf is not removed as soon as it is generated.
Extra care should be exercised when fastening sheeting to structural steel because drilling heavy steel can create a large amount of swarf.
Power nibblers provide a clean cut but produce a metal cutout that can become embedded in the soles of footwear of people working on the roof, and it can be detrimental to the roof coatings. Nibling operations should be performed on the ground and this type of swarf should be cleaned up as it is produced.
N.B. — A power shear does not produce swarf.
Swarf produced by friction cutting or abrading equipment consists of fine metal particles, which have a large area of exposed steel, and therefore corrode very readily. It can be distinguished from drilling swarf by the 'sandy' feel of round particles, and the rust marks have a central round spot with a diminishing halo.
The particles generated by hole saws are also as the result of friction and are included in this category. This swarf is produced as hot particles; oxidation is rapid and they are not easily removed because they can embed themselves by melting or burning into the surface of the metal or coating.

Friction cutting equipment by definition produces heat, which destroys the metallic and paint coating in the vicinity of the cut. This method of cutting is unacceptable and material cut in this manner is not covered by any warranty. See 4.15C Friction Cut Edge.

Friction blade or carborundum disc cutting is not permissible on metal roof or wall cladding.

The roofing contractor will safeguard himself from any damage claim if round swarf is discovered, by not using any friction type cutting tools on site. Power shears, guillotines and hand snips do not produce swarf and in skilled hands are capable of cutting any shape required for the installation of metal cladding.
A common cause of swarf complaints arises because other trades have used grinding equipment in the vicinity of a newly completed roof. Wind carried swarf can contaminate large areas. Designers and other contractors should be aware of the likelihood of such damage, and project planning should include scheduling of all cutting or grinding work to be completed before laying the roof cladding.
Failure to do so can result in damage and the necessity for a reroof or repainting. The liability remains with the person who caused the damage and is not the responsibility of the roofing contractor.
Other debris that is created from the roof cladding process, including rivet stems, nails, screws, broken drill bits, tools, and used sealant cartridges left on a roof surface, can all cause rust staining.

All debris should be removed daily from the roof cladding and gutters.

Swarf Removal

13.2.1 Swarf Removal 
Prevention of swarf damage is much easier than repair.

At the end of each day, the work area should be cleaned by either sweeping with a softbristled broom or hosing down to remove all debris from the roof and gutters.

Dew or condensation will produce rust overnight, so the swarf should be collected as it is produced. A screw gun with a magnetic bit can be useful for this purpose.
As swarf particles are sharp, care should be taken not to damage the surface coating by wearing clean, soft-soled shoes that do not collect swarf, dirt, and gravel. Damage can be minimised by placing a mat or sacking at the base of the ladder so that shoes can be cleaned before moving on to the roof.
All contractors with access to the job should follow the same rules for cleaning up, work practices, and footwear as other trades are often responsible for causing damage that is incorrectly attributed to the roofing contractor.

 

Swarf Damage

13.2.2 Swarf Damage 

If the swarf staining comes from drilling, it is likely that the effect on pre-coated claddings will be aesthetic only and that the performance of the sheeting will not be greatly affected. This is not the case when hot swarf has embedded itself into the paint surface and is in contact with the metallic coating.

In weathering away by oxidation, the metallic coating will sacrifice itself to the bare steel swarf in the immediate vicinity and the life of the coating will be shortened. This situation occurs with plain AZ, ZA, and galvanised metallic coatings, where claddings are not pre-painted, and any swarf left on the surface will be detrimental to the longevity of the sheeting.

No cure will restore the surface to its original condition, but damage can be reduced by prompt action.

Mild swarf stains can be removed by sparingly applying dishwashing liquid to the immediate area, using a soft cloth. For stubborn swarf that has been left for some time and adhered to the surface, the careful use of a nylon pot cleaner may be necessary. The immediate area should be cleaned without undue pressure, as this could mar the paint surface, and the whole area should be washed down with copious amounts of water to ensure there is no remaining cleaner left on the roof.

The factory applied acrylic coating on AZ coatings can be easily damaged, and should not be scrubbed as it will cause a patchy darkening of the surface that will become evident in the repair areas.

Where extensive areas have been affected by grinding swarf, more drastic action may be required. In severe cases, the areas around the swarf should be scrubbed with a stiff bristle brush until all the swarf particles are removed. Any remaining swarf will bleed through the subsequent coating.

If the affected areas show through to the metallic coating, these should be primed first, and the total area of the visible roof cladding should be over-painted with two coats of acrylic paint. Air-drying paints weather more rapidly than factory applied coatings and quickly display colour changes, so patch painting is not a recommended option. Minor scratching or abrasions should be left alone and not be painted for the same reason.